Background
In the neck of a guitar there is a metallic rod called the 'truss rod'. This allows the curvature of the guitar neck to be adjusted, which is necessary when changing the string gauge, or when drastic temperature and/or humidity changes occur (for example when moving the guitar from one country to another).
The truss rod in fact looks like this:
The tension in the strings on a guitar causes the neck to be pulled upwards. This tension obviously varies with string gauge hence why you need to adjust the truss rod when change the string gauge.
When tightened the truss rod itself becomes curved in the opposite direction from the neck (i.e. downwards as shown below). It is this fact that allows the truss rod to counteract the upwards pull caused by the strings.
Types of Truss RodsThere are many types of truss rods, such as the common single truss rod, the non-adjustable truss rod, the dual action truss rod and the double truss rod.
The single truss rod is the truss rod shown in the picture at the top of the page and can be tightened to give the neck back bow (bend the neck downwards to counteract the upwards pull of the strings).
The non-adjustable truss rod is placed in some guitars (although not so common), and it is there just to provide reinforcement for the neck.
The dual action truss rod can be used to add back bow, but can also be used to increase the curvature of the neck upwards (upwards bow).
The double truss rod refers to having two truss rods in the neck. This is so that more force can be applied by the truss rods and is used when in guitars with higher string tension, like a 5 string bass.
The Reason for Requiring a Truss Rod
A string on a guitar basically vibrates in an oval shape. This means that the middle of the string vibrates with greatest amplitude, which you can actually see if you sound an open string. For this reason there needs to be a thing called "relief", which is a bow half way up the neck. This bow prevents the strings from contacting the frets when playing (which causes 'buzzing'). Here are some over-exaggerated diagrams to clarify what I mean:
This is an example of where the truss rod is too loose. The relief in the neck is so great that the "action", which is the distance between the string and the fret, is huge. This will cause difficulty in pressing some of the frets and should be readjusted immediately (seek a specialist).
This is an example of where the truss rod is too tight (back-bow). The relief is non-existent. This means that either you get "buzzing" or you won't be able to sound an open string at all. Again seek a specialist.
This is the ideal. There is a small amount of bow in the centre of the neck which accommodates for the way the string vibrates.
Checking Your Neck ReliefThere is no such thing as an ideal value for neck relief. It will depend on the set-up of the rest of the guitar and your style of playing etc... The neck relief on a guitar can be roughly estimated by pressing down on the 1st fret, and the fret where the neck meets the body of the guitar.
For example on one of my guitars this would be as shown above by the arrow.
While you are holding these two frets you should check the gap between the string and the top of the 7th fret, where the bow should be greatest. This gives you a general guide to how much relief your guitar has. If this gap is no existent then you either have a completely straight neck or back bow in which case your truss rod should be readjusted.
Adjustment of the Guitar Truss Rod
It's not really advisable to adjust the truss rod yourself unless you really know what you're doing - I would suggest you give it to a professional. However I'll complete this section in case you are curious about how the truss rod is adjusted. I take no responsibility in any damage caused by you adjusting the truss rod yourself.
The truss rod can usually be accessed from the headstock, and is normally covered by a plastic cover which first needs to be removed.
When adjusting the truss rod the strings should be loosened. Small adjustments should be made, the guitar tuned, and the relief checked. This is should be carried out until the relief is set to the desired amount.
The truss rod adjustment is made using a hexagonal key. Turning the key in a clockwise direction will tighten the truss rod, which will apply a downwards force on the neck. Turning the key in an anti-clockwise direction will loosen the truss rod, allowing the string tension to pull the neck upwards.
Labels: Guitar, Guitars, Rod, Setup, Truss
by: MusicLandCentral
Features : 9
I got this in the red transparent finish. (Always liked that look, seems classic for this model). Always wanted a 335 style guitar. The spec have already been coverd numerous times, so I will forego that. Switches, tuners, bridge, etc. all seem to be of very good quality. Much better than I expected from a guitar in this price range. It came with no manual (been playing so long that I really didn't need one), a cheap guitar chord, and allen wrenches for bridge adjustments.
Sound : 10
I play just at home for fun these days. I have been playing since 1960, (amazing even to me!). I played in bands on and off since that time. Started out, of course, in an early rock & roll band. Even had a local hit song on the radio in the Chicago-NW Indiana area in the middle 60's. Moved to Florida after college and played in a rock band there. Have played in a country/southern rock band and Mandolin in a bluegrass band since. Quit playing out 20 years ago. Now I play and record at home. Do some songwriting and like to play intstrumental versions of the old standards. Was looking for this type of sound for that music. I only play through a Roland Micro Cube amp I bought recently and use the record out jack to the computer. I really am impressed with the sounds of this guitar. It is just what I was looking for. I had looked at an Epiphone Dot, then found this on eBay and after reading the reviews here and at couple other sites, decided to save a couple hundred dollars and give the Turser a try. It exceeded my expectations. I believe it sounds better than the Epiphone I tried at Guitar Center. I've never tried the real Gibson 335, so cannot compare it to that, but for my purposes I can't see how spending 10 times as much could get me 10 times more than this guitar does. All and all, this guitar gives me the mellow semi-archtop sound that I had wanted. Provides a sound that my other guitars can't.
Reliability/Durability : 10I don't play out live at the present time, but have in the past during a 30 year span. I would certainly trust this for playing out live. It seems to be a solidly built as any guitar I have owned. I am very careful with my instruments and treat them them gently. Strap buttons seem solid enough. I am older and not likely to be jumping around a stage anytime soon! No opinion about using without a backup, never have used a backup in the past and never had a problem. Maybe just lucky or stupid! I believe this guitar will last as long as any with proper care and lack of abuse.
Customer Support : No Opinion
This guitar has a lifetime warranty. I have owned numerous guitars over my nearly 60 years of playing and had never had to use a warranty service. So, the fact that they are willing to backup this guitar for lifetime gives me the feeling that THEY trust the quality of their guitars enough to offer that. That is enough for me. Never used it, have no reason to think I would have to, so cannot give a rating.
Overall Rating : 10
I have been playing, as I said, for nearly fifty years (scary!). My first real guitar was a 1959 DanElectro double cutaway (being reissued now) that I sold when I bought a Fender Jazzmaster new in 1964 (sold that when I was young with four kids and needed the money many years ago)..still regret that decision! I now own a number of instruments, a Peavey T-60 electric guitar, a Sigma DM-18 acoustic, a Sigma DM-12a (12 string Acoustic), an Ovation Applause electric bass, a Washburn 5-string banjo, an F-5 mandolin (I hand made myself), a Washburn C-80S classical guitar, a 3/4 size Ovation guitar, and my latest is a Jay Turser JT-300 (strat copy) that I bought after being so happy with the quality of this Jay Turser JT-133! I compared this guitar to the Epiphone Dot that I tried out at Guitar Center and feel like a got a better guitar for $200 dollars less (which prompted my strat copy purchase (got both for less than the price of the Epiphone Dot!) I really like the looks and sound of this guitar. It is now the guitar I use the most. The neck is perfect for the jazz chords that are required in the music I have been playing. Thin neck makes reaches easier for my fairly short fingers. This, as it turns out, is the guitar that I always wanted. Always had liked the looks of the Es-335's, but price was always out of my range. Only a money making professional could justify the difference between this and the Gibson for the cost differential. I feel like this is by far the best deal I have ever gotten on a guitar. I feel like I got the best of this deal. It's hard to believe that it is possible to get a guitar of this quality for what this costs. If it were lost or stolen (not happening) I would certainly want another to replace it. At my age I have seen the cost of things go up so much that it is just amazing to me. Equally amazing to me is that I could get this nice a guitar for what this cost me. When I was young (many years ago) in inexpensive guitar was nearly worthless, nearly unplayable, and sounded terrible. This is a quality instrument for a very reasonable price. As I said, I already bought the Turser Strat copy after seeing this guitar.
Labels: ES-355, ES335, Guitar, JT-133, Jt133, Turser
by: MusicLandCentral
