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MusicLandCentral.com Archive Page
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
HAGSTROM’S LEGENDARY 8-STRING BASS HAS RETURNED Agoura Hills, CA – Hagstrom is very pleased to announce that the legendary 8-String HB-8 Bass is launching at NAMM 2008 along with a full line-up of Hagstrom Basses. Originally made famous by Noel Redding, Jimi Hendrix, Mike Rutherford, and others, the Hagstrom 8-string bass was revolutionary in the 60’s. The new HB-8 takes the legacy to the next level. Hagstrom employs the patented H-Expander Truss Rod together with the exclusive Resinator Wood fretboard to provide the most rock solid and reliable neck on the planet ensuring true and resonant string energy for each of the 8 strings. The HB-8 also includes a 30.75” scale Canadian Maple neck, MM Bass Rail Humbucker Pickups, BB-208 String-thru-body Bass Bridge, Volume/Blend/Tone controls, and comes in Black, Cream, Wild Cherry Transparent finishes. Boasting a beautifully distinctive Hagstrom headstock with alternating tuner sizes, The Hagstrom HB-8 Bass is visually stunning and has a magnificent sound that is thunderous yet melodic at the same time. Other basses in the Hagstrom line up include the HB-4 4-string bass, the FXB Series 34” scale length bass with various pickup options to suit any style, and the Beluga Series, gorgeous instruments with active pickups and various controls to dial in any style and genre.
by: MusicLandCentral
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Background
In the neck of a guitar there is a metallic rod called the 'truss rod'. This allows the curvature of the guitar neck to be adjusted, which is necessary when changing the string gauge, or when drastic temperature and/or humidity changes occur (for example when moving the guitar from one country to another). The truss rod in fact looks like this: The tension in the strings on a guitar causes the neck to be pulled upwards. This tension obviously varies with string gauge hence why you need to adjust the truss rod when change the string gauge. When tightened the truss rod itself becomes curved in the opposite direction from the neck (i.e. downwards as shown below). It is this fact that allows the truss rod to counteract the upwards pull caused by the strings. Types of Truss RodsThere are many types of truss rods, such as the common single truss rod, the non-adjustable truss rod, the dual action truss rod and the double truss rod. The single truss rod is the truss rod shown in the picture at the top of the page and can be tightened to give the neck back bow (bend the neck downwards to counteract the upwards pull of the strings). The non-adjustable truss rod is placed in some guitars (although not so common), and it is there just to provide reinforcement for the neck. The dual action truss rod can be used to add back bow, but can also be used to increase the curvature of the neck upwards (upwards bow). The double truss rod refers to having two truss rods in the neck. This is so that more force can be applied by the truss rods and is used when in guitars with higher string tension, like a 5 string bass. The Reason for Requiring a Truss Rod
A string on a guitar basically vibrates in an oval shape. This means that the middle of the string vibrates with greatest amplitude, which you can actually see if you sound an open string. For this reason there needs to be a thing called "relief", which is a bow half way up the neck. This bow prevents the strings from contacting the frets when playing (which causes 'buzzing'). Here are some over-exaggerated diagrams to clarify what I mean: This is an example of where the truss rod is too loose. The relief in the neck is so great that the "action", which is the distance between the string and the fret, is huge. This will cause difficulty in pressing some of the frets and should be readjusted immediately (seek a specialist). This is an example of where the truss rod is too tight (back-bow). The relief is non-existent. This means that either you get "buzzing" or you won't be able to sound an open string at all. Again seek a specialist. This is the ideal. There is a small amount of bow in the centre of the neck which accommodates for the way the string vibrates. Checking Your Neck ReliefThere is no such thing as an ideal value for neck relief. It will depend on the set-up of the rest of the guitar and your style of playing etc... The neck relief on a guitar can be roughly estimated by pressing down on the 1st fret, and the fret where the neck meets the body of the guitar. For example on one of my guitars this would be as shown above by the arrow. While you are holding these two frets you should check the gap between the string and the top of the 7th fret, where the bow should be greatest. This gives you a general guide to how much relief your guitar has. If this gap is no existent then you either have a completely straight neck or back bow in which case your truss rod should be readjusted. Adjustment of the Guitar Truss Rod
It's not really advisable to adjust the truss rod yourself unless you really know what you're doing - I would suggest you give it to a professional. However I'll complete this section in case you are curious about how the truss rod is adjusted. I take no responsibility in any damage caused by you adjusting the truss rod yourself. The truss rod can usually be accessed from the headstock, and is normally covered by a plastic cover which first needs to be removed. When adjusting the truss rod the strings should be loosened. Small adjustments should be made, the guitar tuned, and the relief checked. This is should be carried out until the relief is set to the desired amount. The truss rod adjustment is made using a hexagonal key. Turning the key in a clockwise direction will tighten the truss rod, which will apply a downwards force on the neck. Turning the key in an anti-clockwise direction will loosen the truss rod, allowing the string tension to pull the neck upwards. Labels: Guitar, Guitars, Rod, Setup, Truss
by: MusicLandCentral
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Features : 9
I got this in the red transparent finish. (Always liked that look, seems classic for this model). Always wanted a 335 style guitar. The spec have already been coverd numerous times, so I will forego that. Switches, tuners, bridge, etc. all seem to be of very good quality. Much better than I expected from a guitar in this price range. It came with no manual (been playing so long that I really didn't need one), a cheap guitar chord, and allen wrenches for bridge adjustments. Sound : 10
I play just at home for fun these days. I have been playing since 1960, (amazing even to me!). I played in bands on and off since that time. Started out, of course, in an early rock & roll band. Even had a local hit song on the radio in the Chicago-NW Indiana area in the middle 60's. Moved to Florida after college and played in a rock band there. Have played in a country/southern rock band and Mandolin in a bluegrass band since. Quit playing out 20 years ago. Now I play and record at home. Do some songwriting and like to play intstrumental versions of the old standards. Was looking for this type of sound for that music. I only play through a Roland Micro Cube amp I bought recently and use the record out jack to the computer. I really am impressed with the sounds of this guitar. It is just what I was looking for. I had looked at an Epiphone Dot, then found this on eBay and after reading the reviews here and at couple other sites, decided to save a couple hundred dollars and give the Turser a try. It exceeded my expectations. I believe it sounds better than the Epiphone I tried at Guitar Center. I've never tried the real Gibson 335, so cannot compare it to that, but for my purposes I can't see how spending 10 times as much could get me 10 times more than this guitar does. All and all, this guitar gives me the mellow semi-archtop sound that I had wanted. Provides a sound that my other guitars can't. Reliability/Durability : 10I don't play out live at the present time, but have in the past during a 30 year span. I would certainly trust this for playing out live. It seems to be a solidly built as any guitar I have owned. I am very careful with my instruments and treat them them gently. Strap buttons seem solid enough. I am older and not likely to be jumping around a stage anytime soon! No opinion about using without a backup, never have used a backup in the past and never had a problem. Maybe just lucky or stupid! I believe this guitar will last as long as any with proper care and lack of abuse. Customer Support : No Opinion
This guitar has a lifetime warranty. I have owned numerous guitars over my nearly 60 years of playing and had never had to use a warranty service. So, the fact that they are willing to backup this guitar for lifetime gives me the feeling that THEY trust the quality of their guitars enough to offer that. That is enough for me. Never used it, have no reason to think I would have to, so cannot give a rating. Overall Rating : 10
I have been playing, as I said, for nearly fifty years (scary!). My first real guitar was a 1959 DanElectro double cutaway (being reissued now) that I sold when I bought a Fender Jazzmaster new in 1964 (sold that when I was young with four kids and needed the money many years ago)..still regret that decision! I now own a number of instruments, a Peavey T-60 electric guitar, a Sigma DM-18 acoustic, a Sigma DM-12a (12 string Acoustic), an Ovation Applause electric bass, a Washburn 5-string banjo, an F-5 mandolin (I hand made myself), a Washburn C-80S classical guitar, a 3/4 size Ovation guitar, and my latest is a Jay Turser JT-300 (strat copy) that I bought after being so happy with the quality of this Jay Turser JT-133! I compared this guitar to the Epiphone Dot that I tried out at Guitar Center and feel like a got a better guitar for $200 dollars less (which prompted my strat copy purchase (got both for less than the price of the Epiphone Dot!) I really like the looks and sound of this guitar. It is now the guitar I use the most. The neck is perfect for the jazz chords that are required in the music I have been playing. Thin neck makes reaches easier for my fairly short fingers. This, as it turns out, is the guitar that I always wanted. Always had liked the looks of the Es-335's, but price was always out of my range. Only a money making professional could justify the difference between this and the Gibson for the cost differential. I feel like this is by far the best deal I have ever gotten on a guitar. I feel like I got the best of this deal. It's hard to believe that it is possible to get a guitar of this quality for what this costs. If it were lost or stolen (not happening) I would certainly want another to replace it. At my age I have seen the cost of things go up so much that it is just amazing to me. Equally amazing to me is that I could get this nice a guitar for what this cost me. When I was young (many years ago) in inexpensive guitar was nearly worthless, nearly unplayable, and sounded terrible. This is a quality instrument for a very reasonable price. As I said, I already bought the Turser Strat copy after seeing this guitar. Labels: ES-355, ES335, Guitar, JT-133, Jt133, Turser
by: MusicLandCentral
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
SupraNaturas feature handmade designs that are detailed with all-wood binding and trim, wood inlaid rosettes, and wood bridges and endpins. SupraNaturas come with a modern thin profile neck that is inlaid with two rails of carbon graphite for stability and sonic balance. In the U.S. tradition, necks and bodies are finished separately with nitrocellulose lacquer and hand fitted with a bolt-on neck joint, allowing for easy repairs. Model variations include a Venetian cutaway, providing easy access above the 12th fret for a nylon-string classical guitar and the 14th fret on a steel-string acoustic guitar. Walden Natura acoustic/electric guitars are equipped with Fishman Classic 4 active electronic pickups and SupraNatura's feature the Fishman Matrix Natural II. A wide range of steel- and nylon-stringed instruments is available in full and OM body sizes, with a choice of Sitka spruce, Engelmann spruce and mahogany soundboards offering a variety of tones. African mahogany, renowned for its stability, is used on all Walden guitar necks. Solid rosewood fingerboards and bridges, dovetailed neck and body joints, and a two-way adjustable truss rod are standard on all models. Each guitar is complemented with pearl logos, inlaid wood and abalone rosettes. Labels: Acoustic, Fishman, Guitars, Rosewood, SupraNaturas, Walden
by: MusicLandCentral
The newly manufactured Hagstrom line benefits from the advances in materials and manufacturing technology that have occurred since the guitars were last produced in Sweden in 1981. The Hagstrom line's long-established reputation for beauty, playability, and their ability to withstand the rigors of the road forms the foundation for several unique innovations that may now be enjoyed by a new generation of guitar players. The reissued models feature fingerboards manufactured from Diamondwood, a revolutionary, homogeneous wood composite material that maintains a strong fundamental harmonic and eliminates wolf tones. Diamondwood offers ebony-like articulation yet with none of the associated problems, such as shrinkage or cracking. All new Hagstom electric guitars include the company's patented H-Expander truss rod. Providing tension at either end and running the entire length of the neck, the rigid yet lightweight alloy truss rod allows for a very low action and thin neck, two factors that were instrumental in earning Hagstrom its reputation as the world's fastest playing guitar. Ensuring accurate tuning, Hagstrom's exclusive 18:1 gear ratio machine heads are also included on all electric models. A self-lubricating graphite composite nut ensures increased sustain and vibration through improved transfer of energy to the neck, while the hard tropical mahogany tone woods used on the body produce a warm, mellow sound. On some models, sustain is further increased through the use of the FCS-1 full contact bridge system, which offers more contiguous contact than any other tremolo bridge on the market. Driving the guitar body with uninhibited string energy also generates maximum tone and sustain, so the Hagstrom block stop tailpiece is employed to deliver the maximum vibration into the body. North American Hard Rock Maple, arguably the finest neck wood and used by the best luthiers worldwide, further enhances the playability and bright, articulated tone. A hard polyester finish, harder and more dense than standard polyurethane, protects the instrument and offers improved sonic performance. Hagstrom once estimated that some 800,000 musicians had played their guitars, including Elvis Presley, Frank Zappa, Bjorn Ulveus (ABBA), Bryan Ferry (Roxy Music), David Bowie, ZZ Top, Jimi Hendrix and Noel Redding, Steve Hackett and Mike Rutherford (Genesis), and the Beatles. Current aficionados include Aerosmith, Franz Ferdinand, and The Kills.
by: MusicLandCentral
Always buy the best tools that you can afford. Not only do they last longer, but they also don't damage your guitar. As an example of this, cheap screwdrivers are badly made at the tip and can chew up screwheads, making adjustment or removal well-nigh impossible. Here's a collection of tools that I have acquired over the years. I haven't described or shown you the whole lot, just those which will make up a basic set-up kit. 1. Screwdrivers. You need a range of these but, as a rough guide, you'll need a large and a small one for slot screwheads and the same for crosshead screws. You can get sets of tips with a handle, but you don't want to be replacing tips all the time, so my advice is to use separate screwdrivers. You need screwdrivers for very obvious reasons - undoing screws - but a less-obvious use, until you come to do it - is adjusting a trussrod which has the screw at the body end of the neck. You also need screwdrivers for pick-up height adjustment and for setting the pole-piece heights. Trem adjustment is also impossible without them. 2. Allen or Hex keys. You may be lucky and get these with your guitar, in which case, keep them with the guitar and look after them carefully. Hex keys are easy to obtain and generally cheap. I've put handles on a couple of mine. It makes them easier to use and more comfortable. The small one is for the bridge screws of my Tele and Strat and the larger one for adjusting my Strat's trussrod. Hex keys are also necessary to adjust locking-type trem units. 3. Wire Cutters. Guitar strings are made of very hard steel and you need good quality cutters to cope with them. Cheap cutters just get nicks in the blades and are useless almost as soon as you start using them. There are a couple of types I use. The side cutters do for all sorts of jobs, but the others are good for accessibility around the head of the guitar. 4. Steel Rule. When it comes to this item, you need to find one that is graduated to sixty-fourths of an inch. Not easy to find, but not impossible. You need this to set action and pick-up height amongst other things. 5. Feeler gauge You'll need this to measure the action. A set of both imperial and metric are handy. I think these are sometimes called spark plug gauges 6. Socket Wrench. Sometimes, as with my Les Paul, the trussrod adjustment is made with a socket. Because of the access you need a socket attached to a screwdriver handle. It also helps if the socket is a "long throw" or deep type. 7. Nut Tools. Needle files are good for cutting the nut slots for the wound strings, whilst a piece of junior hacksaw blade with the set knocked out will cut slots for the plain strings. 8. String Winder. An invaluable tool! saves hours of winding and also has a bridge pin puller for acoustic guitars. Buy one. Don't put it off. Buy one now! 9. Bridge Radius Gauge. As long as you know the radius of the fingerboard of your guitar, you can make your own. You will have to compensate for the fact that the wound strings have to be set slightly higher at the bridge. You need this for Fender bridges where each string saddle can be adjusted individually. Gibson saddle heights are preset. With Fenders you have to "mirror" the fretboard radius in the saddle heights. 10. Neck Block. This keeps the guitar head off the flat surface you're using to work on and also makes working at that end a lot easier. I made mine out of a couple of bits of scrap pine I had left when I put a new door on my bathroom. I then padded it with foam to protect the guitar neck. You also need a piece of carpet to lay on your work surface to protect the back of the body and some means of tuning the guitar to pitch. This could be an electronic tuner, pitch pipes or a tuning fork. I use an electronic tuner myself. A capo will also be needed when you come to adjust the trussrod. A good purchase is a small tool box in which to store the various tools. some are quite small and easily lost. Of course, you may have many of these tools already and only need to buy a few to make up your set-up kit.
by: MusicLandCentral
Monday, February 11, 2008
Welcome to our MusicLandCentral Blog site. We hope you find our Blogs Educational and Helpful. Our goal is to provide you information to make your music experience more enjoyable.
by: MusicLandCentral
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